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IOTA DLS55
DC to DC Converter

Mar. 3, 2008

I am going to mount the IOTA DC to DC converter behind the seat on the passenger side.
I plan on using household 3 terminal outlet that will be labeled 170 Volts DC.
The Iota DLS55 weighs 6 LBS.

Mar. 8, 2008

I am going to install a regular outlet for the IOTA DC to DC converter to plug into behind the seat on the passenger side.
The household 3 terminal outlet will be labeled 170 Volts DC.
I would like to have a GFCI outlet in this location, but, I don't know if a 110 VAC GFCI will work on 170 VDC (Did not work on DC, see Mar.13, 2008 update).
I will test it when I get the wires and fuses in place, if the GFCI doesn't work I will replace it with a regular household outlet labled 170 VDC.
I marked around the plastic electrical box and then drilled pilot holes in the pattern corners. I cut the hole with a hand sheet metal nibbler.
I used a heat gun to warm the plastic tabs on the electrical box to conform to the back of the cab and then used flat head sheet metal screws to secure the box .

I calked around the box to seal it from moisture and dirt.

I didn't have any 14 Ga. cable tonight so when I get some I will replace the heavy 12 Ga. cable with the lighter cable.

Mar. 13, 2008

I replaced the GFCI outlet with a standard outlet. I used Bright Orange electrical tape to cover the outlet cover and also labled the outlet "Danger 160 VDC".

I replaced the sheet metal screws that hold the outlet box in place with flat head screws with washers, locks and nuts to secure the box from the back side.

Mar. 20, 2008

I replaced the heavy 12 Gauge cable with lighter 14/3 Gauge exterior extention cord. 14/3 Wire should be large enough to handle a 12 Amp max. load of the DC to DC convertor.
I wrapped the cord with Bright Orange electrical tape. I also sealed the plastic outlet box knock outs with clear sealant to keep moisture out.

Mar. 21, 2008

I used a set of 6 Gauge jumper cables to make the 12 Volt cables for the 12 Volt side of the DC to DC Converter.
Where I decided to run the 12 Volt cables out of the cab, I drilled 7/16" holes for plastic grommets.

I wrapped the Pos. 12 volt cable with Red Electrical tape.
I attached the Neg. 6 Gauge cable to the S10 frame with a self tapping machine screw and star washers.
I also attached a grounding 10 Gauge wire from the frame to the cab, and used star washers to get a good electrical connection.

Mar. 24, 2008

I used plastic 1/2" conduit straps to secure the wiring to the frame, with 1/8' "Pop Rivits" with a small washer under the head of the rivit.

May 10, 2008

I wanted the "IOTA DLS 55" to have the two stage operation described at EV Source.
The link to the directions from EV Source are HERE.
I added a 1N4002 diode across the coil to prevent kickback.
I mounted the relay and added a LED to give me a ON indication when the coil is energized.

May 17, 2008

Connected the relay power "ON" wire into the acc fuse block.

May 19, 2008

I was able to get a new 33 AH, AGM battery from a local security company that was damaged in shippment (see the top corner) and was unsaleable .
I will modify the S10 battery box to fit the battery and also to fit down low in the stock S10 battery location.

May 21, 2008

I used a cut off disc and chopped the stock S10 battery tray down to fit the AGM battery.
I bent a 3/8" lip up around the edge of the battery tray to hold the battery in place.
I will weld some tabs on the tray to bolt it to the radiator support and the right inner fender.

May 22, 2008

I used a cut off disc and chopped the mounting ear off of the stock S10 battery box and welded it to the AGM battery box.
I welded a couple of 5/16" washers on the battery tray to attach it to the inner fender.
Painted it gloss black.
I soldered spade terminals on the positive and ground leads, and covered with shrink wrap.
The plastic tie wrap will go around the battery tray and the battery for a battery hold down.
I connected the terminals to test for current draw, no electrical draw. GOOD!
I wish the battery had heavier lugs where the cables attached, oh well, "Beggers can't be Choosers."

Jun. 3, 2008

I am going to mount a relay on the board for the power going to the IOTA DC to Dc convertor from the main battery pack.
I used a 4" flat "L" bracket, I cut board to get the "L" bracket flush with the outside of the board.
I will mount the relay on this upright brace.

<See more about this relay mounting by clicking on the "Zilla Controller & Cooling" link on the left side of your screen.

Jun. 7, 2008

I bought plastic 3 prong cord connectors to connect the HV power to the IOTA converter.
I connected the dark cord wire to the dark screw in the cord cap, which will go to the HV B+ (positive battery terminal).
I connected the white cord wire to the light screw in the cord cap, which will go to the HV B- (negative battery terminal).
I connected the green (ground) cord wire to the green grounding terminal in the cord cap.
This ground will not be connected to anything on the truck. The ground will be used if I plug the cord cap into a household 115 volt AC outlet to use the IOTA to charge the aux. 12 volt battery.

Aug. 22, 2008

I could not get the Hairball to energize the main contactor.
The hairball would energize the main contactor if I unplugged the IOTA converter power cord. (???!!!)
After the main contactor was energized then I could plug the IOTA converter back in and it would charge the 12 volt aux. battery.
But why, would the main contactor not energize with the converter power cord plugged in?
I checked the trouble codes coming from the Hairball and there was a code, that there was a short in the contactor wiring (?),
No Short, but what I decided was that the low resistance from the IOTA converter was causing the hairball to think that there was a short in the main contactor wiring.
I removed the relay power wire (that was energized when I turned the key to the "on or run" position) and relocated the relay power wire with the main contactor power wire (I added a fuse to the relay wire to protect the hairball in the event an overload).

Bottom Row terminal strip, Far Right fuse, New DC to DC relay power fuse.
Okay, now when the key is in the start position, the hairball will not see a low resitance condition, so the Main Contactor should energize and at the same time bring in the DC to DC relay, to charge the 12 Volt aux. battery.
TEST............YES!!! it works!!!

Went to DMV to get the truck registered, TODAY!!!...TEST Drive Soon!!

Dec. 24, 2008

The 12 volt acc. battery has been slowly going dead from a small current drain.
I traced the current draw to the 12 volt side of the DC to DC converter.
I need to disconnect the 12 volt battery side of the converter when the truck is setting idle, so I added a relay between the acc. battery and the 12 volt output of the IOTA DC to DC converter.
I revised the DC to DC wiring to reflect this change.

Jan. 29, 2009 (revised Feb. 6, 2009)

I have been having troubles with the low amperage relay that switches the power to the DC to DC converter.
I was afraid it would have too light of contacts, I should have ordered the High amp relay from Ev Source in the begining.
The relay is mounted on the Zilla board.
The relay contacts keep sticking in the closed position, but will release with a small knuckle tap to the relay case.
I ordered a new KUEP-3D15-12 High-Power Relay Assembly from EV Source.

I removed the old relay and installed the new one and added a snubber circuit to protect the points on the new relay.
I soldered the snubber on the relay terminals, and used insulated spade terminals to connect the relay.

There was not space to use the relay socket so I mounted the relay on the "L" brace with a tie wrap.

Feb. 6, 2009

I have continued to have troubles with the relay on the Dc to Dc converter.
Even the Magnecraft relay contacts are buring and sticking, holding the relay in the ON position.
I feel that the reason for the contacts sticking is that Dc to Dc converter has a very high initial current draw, it tapers down after the voltage stablizes.
I purchased a Magnecraft, W199DX-2, 12VDC, 40a, spst-no-dm open frame relay on eBay.
The specs. for the 199 series relay can be found at, Magnecraft.com.
I wish it had magnetic blowouts, I will just have to see how long it hold up to the surges.

Sorry for the fuzzy pictures, I should have took them before I put the plastic cover back on. :-(

I installed the kickback diode around the 12 volt coil, on the back side of the relay.

I also installed a snubber circuit to help protect the points on the new relay, 1 MFD and a 100 Ohm, 1Watt resistor in series across the points.
Everything was a close fit!


Next Installation of Manzanita PFC-20 Charger.

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